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Case Tractor Manufacturing screw ups

Case 580E Hydraulic Stabilizer Gland Removal
Note the damages do to shameful engineering by case manufacturing.
Those idiots make a number 5 fit on the threads which makes for very
difficult removal requiring a torch. Also the idiots add a very small
screw which often breaks off trying to move it. They design the cylinder
as if they were designing for an aircraft, which is totally ridiculous.
Plus they add lock tight to the threads, all of which is unnecessary.
It is best when reassembling to file down the threads for the next
time. Also I do not use a little screw and I do not tight the gland
back to its original position to where the screw hole lines up, but
a little shy of it. I get no leaks, proving Case people don't know
what works and what doesn't. I would avoid purchasing their shit until
they design for the users and not for just those that assemble the
parts. A cylinder should come off and be able to take apart as easy
as it is to assemble, much like changing a car tire. Also there is
no reason what so ever why the can't add more meat to the face of
the glands for easier removal with a hex milled end or even for a
pipe wrench. The pin holes they provide suck because many repair shops
have complained about pins breaking. Notice the damaged holes in the
photo.

Case Tractor Stabilizer removal
The above images shows the terrible engineering they perform at Case
manufacturing. Their pin tolerances are way too tight causing the
pins to freeze in place. Contact Case at Customer Service 621 State
Street, Racine, WI 53402 and tell them you have a problem. If you
don't they will never fix it. We need more people to complain before
they will change. This is not a rust problem or mis-alignment.

This is the hydraulic Button I used in between the two cut and torched
pins to press the pins out.
I just added flat washers and it fought me all the way. Shameful Case
manufacturing practices.
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Mustang Skid Loader Parking Brake Fix

This is a typical solenoid operated wheel lock used on some skid loaders.
I do not like them because the often slam on when you least expect
them to.
I had a heck of a time trying to locate the problem between seat switch
and
others. So I just took them off. You really do not need them in most
cases.
There is one on the left and one on the right side. Once removed,
take off the
one to two inch long bolt which allows the braking slider block to
fall out.
Store it aside for future usage. Then reinstall the solenoid, only
this time there
is no need to hook up the power source.
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Location of the right side parking solenoid. The left side is slighly
forward in a tight pocket.
A better design would have been to allow the operator to manually
disconnect the solenoid.
The only good reason I see for the parking brakes is for transporting
purposes.
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Also to protect myself: I take no responsibility if you screw up, your
on your own if anyone decides to build one.
This is just advice to help out the commoner. Modify & build at your own
risk.
All my inventions and ideas are for sale. I'm looking for manufacturers.
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